Seoul 2023 Starter Guide
Seoul is a fast paced city. Everything you need is at your fingertips. The level of speed and efficiency outdoes any country I have ever spent time in, not to mention the exceptional customer service. And they don’t even take tip!
Many of you have been asking me for a Seoul list. With restrictions lifted and travels resuming normally, there is no better time to go.
To get you started, here is my breakdown as of December 2022 on how to get around, what you need to eat, and areas you should shop.
To get around Seoul, you’ll want to download any of the following apps to facilitate your travels. When it comes to navigation, you can use either of the two below as a supplement to the maps you already use. In regards to connectivity, you’ll be able to get around without a Korean phone number but having Wi-Fi is a must in this city, especially when you’re trying to call a cab during rush hour.
You’re in Korea. Where Korean food is best. My suggestion would be to fully immerse yourself in the endless options that Korean cuisine has to offer first. Go check out that outdoor Korean BBQ restaurant, have some soju at the local bar, slurp your preferred choice of noodles at the noodle shop, and dine like a king at a traditional (han-jeongsik) restaurant. Don’t forget about your street food items like kimbap, ddukboki, and ramen. Visit a tea shop and have some rice cakes. Go get curry, dive into an array of stews, switch it up with some eel bbq. Go for sushi, dumplings, pancakes, the list goes on.
When in doubt, check out the lower level food courts of any of the three big malls: Hyundai, Lotte, or Shinsegae. You will not go wrong with any of the food court items or restaurants if you stick to Korean. Italian, Chinese, or American are usually the next safest choice. Below are examples of some of the food court meals I recently had.
Chicken Katsu Set
Chinese at Crystal Jade
Grilled Short Rib Patties (Tteokgalbi)
Yeolmu Barley Bibimbap
Firebell Burger
Fermented Soybean Paste Stew (Chunggukjang) Set
If you’re famished and looking for a quick grab-and-go, a 7/11, CU, or GS25 is on every corner of the block. There is also some sort of bakery or cafe on nearly every block. I’ve recently been enjoying the convenient toast chains located all around the city when I need a quick breakfast — Egg Drop and Isaac Toast — have both been delicious grab and go’s.
The noodle game is a strong one in Korea so don’t forget to dip into the endless options offered here. The best part? Depending on the noodles, a single order can cost you as little as 5000 KRW ($4 USD).
Mak-guksu
Jajangmyeon
Janchi-guksu
Tonkatsu Ramen
There is always something new about ready to be made known in Seoul’s dynamic food scene. If you have time to plan, it is best to make reservations on the weekends as most restaurants get booked fast. In any case, here are a few that I have enjoyed this past year.
**Note: You need a Korean phone number to book reservations online, alternative option is to book via call.
Summer Lane, Australian, Hannam-dong
Great Australian brunch spot with hip crowd for when you need some great breakfast flavors. Lines get long on the weekends so plan ahead.
써머레인, 서울 용산구 이태원로55가길 49 1층
La Cucina, Italian, Hannam-dong
Elegant, quiet, and traditional. La Cucina does simple dishes really well in a serene atmosphere. Offers separate rooms for groups seeking privacy.
라쿠치나, 서울시 용산구 회나무로44길 10
Submersible Bridge Jip (Jamsugyojib), BBQ, Apgujeong-dong
When meat is priority, but you prefer smaller bites. The pork belly here is so thin and so crispy. End it on a spicy note with the classic kimchee fried rice.
잠수교집 5호점, 서울 강남구 언주로153길 14
Pairing Room, Italian, Cheongdam-dong
Charming little spot for a new take on Italian great for dates or small groups. The pepper soybean pasta was a personal favorite that combines rich Korean soybean flavors to a wonderfully textured al dente pasta. *Each dish can be a hit or a miss given its exploratory DNA, (avoid any of the tomato based items offered here).
페어링룸, 서울 강남구 도산대로81길 14
Jinjak Dining, Japanese Fusion, Seongsu-dong
Your party wants pasta but maybe you want rice? Japanese fusion restaurant offering a variety of options. There’s something for everyone at this table.
진작다이닝, 서울 성동구 왕십리로14길 10
Cucciolo Terrazza, Italian, Cheongdam-dong
Good simple Italian in a cozy atmosphere that somehow has you feeling light (in the best way) afterwards. Great for dates and small gatherings.
쿠촐로 테라짜, 서울 강남구 선릉로152길 33
Yeongdong Eel, Eel Specialty, Nonhyeon-dong
You’ve had Korean BBQ but have you had the eel version? This traditional eel house serves you the-crispy-on-the-outside-chewy-on-the-inside-kind of goodness. Great for groups, offers private rooms.
영동장어, 서울 강남구 언주로148길 8
And for some lovely cafes…
Nudake, Apgujeong
If you’ve ever wondered what avant-garde dessert might look like, this is it. The highly conceptual dessert brand located underneath its parent eyewear company Gentle Monster really sticks to a particular vibe. Fortunately, it’s not all just looks; the taste is equally unique.
누데이크, 서울 강남구 압구정로46길 50, 하우스 도산 B1
Deux Amis Patisserie Cafe, Sinsa-dong
Think checkered floors, french cafe music, and all your sweets cravings. Come here to get a fill on french pastries.
듀자미, 서울 강남구 도산대로11길 28
Hannam Atelier, Hannam-dong
It’s an art studio and cafe that happens to make beautiful coffee too. Walking in, you already feel inspired.
한남작업실, 서울 용산구 이태원로55나길 7, 1층
Cheongsudang Tea House, Ikseon-dong
This is for the tea lovers who want to cozy up in a traditional hanok house surrounded by a bamboo garden and hear the sound of water as you take bites into a soft strawberry souffle. Truly serene.
청수당, 서울 종로구 돈화문로11나길 31-9
Orby by Tailor Coffee at the Conran Shop
Connected to the Conran Shop that houses all the modern furniture items you want to buy, Orby by Tailor Coffee is the perfect break you need in between.
올비바이테일러커피, 서울 강남구 도곡로 401
When it comes to shopping in Seoul, I prioritize two things. Beauty and what’s local.
As a rule of thumb, the department stores (Hyundai, Lotte, Shinsegae, etc.) are great for the food markets and restaurants. For shopping, it’s worth browsing the international brands that may not be offered where you’re coming from but you don’t want to shop any western brands here as they will cost you more.
The Duty Free shops located inside the malls are (in my opinion) where you should stock up on your basic cosmetic needs. To give you an idea, a 10-pack face mask will cost you about $22 USD at Duty Free which normally retail at about $5 per mask. So yes, it is worth it. Shinsegae, Shilla, and Lotte all conveniently have their duty free offerings in close proximity to one another in Jung-Gu. Avoid traveling to these areas during rush hour though as roads can get flooded with tourists.
**Don’t forget to bring your passport and outbound flight information to make purchases at Duty Free shops.
Local vendors and neighborhood boutiques are where you can find unique items for cheap. This is where you’ll find a lot of one-size fits all pieces. There is room to negotiate a bit when it comes to the local vendors. Offer cash for a better deal.
Below is a breakdown of the shopping areas I’ve enjoyed exploring this year.
성동구 - 성수동
SEONGDONG-GU / SEONGSU-DONG This has been an up and coming neighborhood that gives you gentrified Brooklyn vibes. There are a ton of cute cafes and shops to explore including some great Korean handbag brands.
Highlights: Hince, Osoi, Loeuvre.
강남구 - 신사동
GANGNAM-GU / SINSA-DONG One of the main gangnam shopping streets that gives you hip and trendy. Make sure to explore the smaller streets as most of the main road is comprised of the bigger western brands.
Highlights: 3CE Style Nanda, Arket, Aland.
강남구 - 청담동
GANGNAM-GU / CHEONGDAM-DONG Think 5th Avenue of NYC or Avenue Montaigne of Paris. The streets are lined with luxury brands and malls with upscale dining and cafes sprinkled throughout.
Highlights: Galleria, 10 Corso Como, Boon the Shop, My Boon.
강남구 - 앞구정동
GANGNAM-GU / APGUJEONG-DONG This lively shopping area across the street from Cheongdam Fashion Street is flooded with vibrant shops, cafes, and restaurants.
Highlights: Haus Dosan, Barneys NY Beauty, Kinfolk.
강남구 - 대치동
GANGNAM-GU / DAECHI-DONG This is a big student area populated with tons of after school academies and classes. Oddly enough, there are random stores and markets in between the studies that sometimes turn out to be gems.
Highlights: 701 Studio, Atelier, Eunma Shopping Mall.
용산구 - 한남동
YONGSAN-GU / HANNAM-DONG Classy little neighborhood that’s worth exploring for all the new trendy shops and cafes. Great local jewelry boutiques throughout. Hidden gem(s) central, celebrity citings, feels a bit like NYC’s West Village/Soho.
Highlights: Comme Des Garcons, Lansmere (Mens), Galleria Gourmet 494.
중구 - 명동, 장충동
JUNG-GU / MYEONG-DONG, JANGCHUNG-DONG This highly populated area is where you come for all your duty free needs. Plan ahead so you’re not stuck in traffic all day.
Highlights: Shinsegae Duty Free, Lotte Duty Free, Shilla Duty Free.
종로구 - 삼청동
JONGNO-GU / SAMCHEONG-DONG This charming neighborhood, full of hills and hanok (traditional Korean homes), is made up of small art galleries, cultural shops, and low-key restaurants. It’s a great area because you get all the cultural vibes without it feeling too touristy.
종로구 - 익선동
JONGNO-GU / IKSEON-DONG This lovely little hanok village is full of cute shops and cafes with all the traditional flair. Take a stroll through the narrow alleyways filled with very affordable low-key shops. Good to have cash handy here.
Highlights: Ruda, Neared.
